Newsletter

Dental care is vital to your pet's health! If you've already established a dental care program for your pet, you're off to a great start. But if your pet hasn't received a dental exam from your veterinarian, it's time to get started. February is National Pet Dental Health Month, the perfect time to schedule a dental exam for your pet and develop a home care regimen for your best friend.

Why is dental care so important for your pet? Periodontal disease is the number one diagnosed problem in pets - by the age of two, more than 80 percent of dogs and 70 percent of cats have periodontal disease in one form or another. The buildup of plaque and tartar on your pet's teeth leads to bacterial infections that can enter the bloodstream and infect other parts of your pet's body. Periodontal disease has been linked to heart attacks, strokes, kidney disease, osteoporosis and other problems.

The good news is that periodontal disease is easily prevented. Routine dental cleanings and a home dental care regimen can eliminate the plaque and tartar that lead to gum disease and oral infections. During a dental cleaning, your veterinarian also performs a complete oral examination of your pet. This includes screening for oral cancer, broken teeth and cavities. Spotting these problems early on makes them easier to treat and improves your pet's overall oral health.

Your pet's dental cleaning is more involved than the same process you go through at the dentist's office. Anesthesia is required to keep your pet still and comfortable during the procedure. Because of this, your pet undergoes a thorough physical examination before each dental cleaning. Laboratory blood tests, as well as other diagnostic procedures are also used to screen for potential problems and risks before anesthesia is administered. Using these results, we develop a safe anesthetic protocol specifically for your pet.

During a dental cleaning, tartar is removed from your pet's teeth with a hand scaler. Next, a periodontal probe is used to check for pockets under the gumline - where periodontal disease and bad breath start. An ultrasonic scaler is used to clean above the gumline and a curette is used to clean and smooth the teeth under the gumline and in the crevices. Finally, the teeth are polished and an anti-bacterial solution is used to help delay future tartar build-up.

Dental care doesn't end in your veterinarian's office. Brushing your pet's teeth at home is an added level of protection against gum disease. In order to be most effective, brushing must be done at least three times a week; however, daily brushing is ideal. Brushing your pet's teeth can be supplemented with antiseptic rinses. Some pet foods and treats are also effective in preventing plaque and tartar buildup. However, there is no substitute for regular brushing and professional dental cleanings.

Schedule a dental examination and cleaning for your pet today. Your best friend will thank you!

The staff at our hospital would like to develop a close relationship with you and your pet. You will find that among the members of our staff, we have interest and expertise in many species and specialties. Hopefully, your pet will never require more than routine care, but sometimes more complex issues arise.

In many cases, early detection and monitoring can help prevent problems and provide long-term management of existing conditions. We have found great satisfaction in keeping our patients comfortable and happy! Because some health conditions have a genetic basis, we know that puppies of certain breeds are more likely than average to show specific problems. We would like to offer you help with early detection of these, so that their effects, if present, can be minimized. Please scan the list below; it is an illustration of how pervasive genetic diseases are. If your breed is listed, please ask a member of our staff about the linked disease, screening test(s), and recommendations.

German Shepherd

This list is just a sample and is not exhaustive; ask us if your pet is pre-disposed to something so that we can discuss how to help. Some problems, such as heart valve disease, dental/periodontal disease, and skin allergies are seen in many breeds. Some of our suggestions may be hospital-oriented (lab-work, X-rays, etc.) while some may relate to home management. For example: a large breed puppy that is checked for hip dysplasia may have a long, relatively comfortable life if he/she avoids games of Frisbee and long runs; a King Charles Cavalier Spaniel placed on cardiac drugs pre-emptively may significantly increase its life expectancy.

King Charles Cavalier Spaniel

When should these problems be addressed? Before the problem is so severe that your pet is showing symptoms. More often than not, a few simple tests can give a diagnosis. From there, we work with you to keep your pet comfortable and symptom-free.

Boxer

You've adopted a cat from a friend, a shelter or your veterinarian. Looking at your cat, it's so beautiful that you think it must be a purebred. Looking at a chart on the wall or at pictures in a book, you're sure you found the cat. It must be a purebred...or is it?

It is possible you have found a purebred; however, there are many reasons why this is unlikely. First of all, it is important to understand a little bit about the meaning of breeds.

According to the Cat Fanciers Association, fewer than 3 percent of all owned cats worldwide are pedigreed. This doesn't include the feral cat population which is estimated to be twice the population of cats with homes. Out of all registered purebred cats, more than half are Persians. In 1998, CFA registered 18,332 Persian kittens born that year (not of the Himalayan pattern). Compare that number to the smallest breed, the European Burmese, which registered a mere 39 kittens the same year.

Himalayan

Breed is an artificial distinction, one that has only been present when talking about cats for a little over a century. The existence of some cat breeds can be traced back fewer than ten years. Unlike dog breeds, cat breeds are a relatively new concept, and many are imports from other countries. Only for the last 20 years have we seen the diversity that makes up most of our cat breeds today.

There is a crucial difference between breeds and traits. A particular breed of cat almost always has a particular trait, but not every cat with that trait is a member of that breed. For example, solid blue coloration is a trait common to four breeds: Korat, Russian Blue, Chartreux, and British Shorthair. However, these four breeds are very different from one another in body type, boning, facial structure, eye shape and color and general conformation. They are also very rare breeds, particularly in the United States. The CFA registered only 222 Chartreux kittens and 85 Korat kittens worldwide in 1998.

Russian Blue

Blue coloration is also very common in the mixed-breed cat population at large. Genetically, it is the "dilute" form of black. A "blue" is a solid black cat with one gene that changes the look of the color in such a way that the cat appears an attractive shade of blue-gray. Black is the most common genetic color in cats. In other words, more than 99 percent of all blue cats are from the general (non-pedigreed) cat population.

Another common trait that is mistaken for a purebred is the so-called Manx trait, or complete to partial taillessness. This dominant trait is found in the random-bred population as well as the purebred Manx population. Taillessness can also occur from accidents. Your vet should be able to tell you if the taillessness is from an accident or if the cat was born that way. Just over 700 pedigreed Manx kittens were registered in 1998. Again, that's worldwide. There are far more tailless cats than can be accounted for in this fashion.

Breed is not about traits as much as it is about pedigree. A cat is a member of a breed because its parents were registered members of that breed. Without papers to say that a cat is a member of a breed, there is absolutely no way to say for certain that a cat is a member of a breed. The most accurate thing you can say about them is that they are a breed look-alike.

Every breed of purebred cat originally started from domestic populations. The desire to create a particular cat that would be predictable in looks and temperament led people to search the domestic cat populations for selective breeding. Many people think that every large long-haired cat is a Maine Coon, but those who actually have pedigrees are few and far between. However, the Maine Coon was created from hardy, long-haired, mixed-breed cats several decades ago, so the chances are that large long-haired mixed-breed cats and today's fancy show cats shared common ancestors.

Even though your cat may not be a purebred, the thing that makes them all special is their own unique traits and personalities.

As veterinary medicine has become more sophisticated, nurturing your pet has become the rule rather than the exception and the population of elderly pets has grown steadily. As an animal (or person, for that matter) advances into the twilight years, inevitable aging changes take place in all organ systems, including the brain. Dogs, dependent upon breed, are considered senior citizens when they reach 7-10 years of age. Does this mean that when your dog has exceeded this arbitrary limit he will necessarily show signs of senile dementia? Absolutely not!

Cognitive Dysfunction Syndrome (CDS) or Canine Cognitive Disorder (CCD) is commonly referred to as senility or "old dog" syndrome. While loss of mobility, reduced immune system function, slower metabolism, loss of muscle and bone mass, and reduced hearing, sight and smell are normal signs of aging, a gradual, progressive loss of thinking (cognition) processes such as awareness, perception of surroundings, ability to learn, and memory are the major components of the disorder. CDS can lead to a break in the close bond shared between pet and family members as changes in temperament or house-training can occur. Many people think that it is normal for their elderly dog to gradually lose its energy and interest in life, and choose to tolerate cognitive aging far longer than is necessary. They either avoid veterinary advice all together or wait until bladder or bowel control is gone before seeking an opinion.

Signs of CDS are fairly straight forward, but it also requires observation on your part. As a responsible care giver, noting changes in behavior of your elderly dog should not be difficult if there is already an established bond. Blood tests, urine analysis, radiographs, and other tests may be necessary to diagnose CDS once symptoms appear, as many times other illnesses may make diagnosis challenging due to an overlap in symptoms. Not all dogs show these signs; however, one thing is certain: as in humans, the signs are progressive and will completely incapacitate your dog in time.

Symptoms:

• Weight loss / Appetite changes
• Confusion, disorientation, anxious look, staring into space, getting lost in the house
• Difficulty navigating the environment (e.g. stairs)
• Altered pattern of sleeping and waking
• Loss of learned behaviors such as obedience commands and house training
• Reduced responsiveness or a change in relationship with family such as aloofness, aggression, apparent loss of recognition of familiar people or sounds
• Increased thirst
• Excessive panting
• Abnormal vocalization such as howling or monotonous barking

Prior to the advent of deprenyl, a prescription-only drug that helps minimize symptoms by enhancing brain dopamine levels, there was no treatment available. Dopamine is an integral part of brain function because it increases cognitive awareness. If depleted, it results in lower cognitive ability. While deprenyl is not a cure, it can symptomatically reverse the signs of aging by increasing dopamine in the brain and turning back the aging clock. The goal of treatment is to provide a better quality of life for your dog and slow the progression of symptoms. Like any drug treatment, however, not all dogs respond to deprenyl. Statistics show that one-third of canine patients respond extremely well, one-third respond reasonably well, and one-third do not respond at all. Unfortunately, there is no way to tell prior to drug therapy if your dog will respond to treatment.

Mentally speaking, some dogs appear to be fine long after the empirical cut-off for elderly dogs. Some remain bright and "with it" to the end of their natural life span, earning them the title of "successful ager". Dogs that are unable to weather the cerebral storms of life successfully and show obvious signs of mental deterioration constitute "unsuccessful agers". Regardless of which group your dog may fall into, CDS is a very real disorder that can affect any dog of any breed. As your dog ages, be aware of changes both physically and mentally. Adjust his lifestyle to better suit his decreased abilities. By consulting with your veterinarian and providing your elderly dog with comfort and compassion, you are making his quality of life the top priority. That is the best treatment any pet can receive.

A microchip is a tiny computer chip which has an identification number programmed into it. The chip is the size of a grain of rice, and it is easily and safely implanted into the skin of an animal with a hypodermic needle. Once the animal is "chipped" he can be identified throughout his life by this unique number. Microchips are read by a scanning device which recognizes a unique identification number. Through registration of the animal with a national database, the owner can be contacted and this is an important step many pet owners forget. The bad news is that this technology is not foolproof. Watch this quick video and learn more about what you can do to make sure your pet is properly identified using a new free service.

When your cat feels threatened, he may have a variety of responses. Generally he follows a pattern or displays one of three reactions: fight, flight or freeze. Each cat has a preferred way of dealing with a crisis. Knowing how your cat reacts to a perceived threat and what may cause your cat to consider a situation threatening helps you better understand your cat.

Common fearful reactions include hiding, freezing in place, loss of bladder and/or bowel control and aggression. Aggression can manifest in spitting, hissing, growling, swatting, biting, scratching and puffing up of fur. These are all normal behaviors if your cat feels scared or threatened. Your reaction to your cat's behavior is most important. Wanting to help and comfort your cat when he is frightened is natural; however, it isn't necessarily the best thing to do. Providing your cat with a safe and protected place (a box, space in the closet, under the bed) is often the best decision. Allowing your cat to deal with his fear is healthy as long as his aggression is not destructive and/or directed at you or other pets.

Many things can trigger fearful behavior in cats. The trigger could almost be anything, and until you learn what it is that initiates this behavior in your cat, you need to closely observe him when faced with new situations. Common triggers can be a particular person, a stranger in your home, another animal, a child, loud noises, household appliances and so on. It is important to note if your cat's behavior changes when faced with potentially frightening situations. In other words, the vacuum may draw an initial fearful response, but gradually change into acceptance. By noting your cat's ability to adapt to scary situations over time, you can learn quite a bit about his personality.

So what can you do to reduce your cat's anxiety or fear? To help him become more confident and secure, follow the steps described below.

• Schedule an appointment with your veterinarian for a thorough physical exam to rule out any medical reasons for your cat's fearful behavior. Cats very often show symptoms of sickness in their behavior. Any sudden behavior change could mean that your cat is ill. Common symptoms that appear in sick cats include unusual aggressiveness, frequent hiding and eliminating outside the litter box.
• If your cat is healthy but hiding, leave him alone. He'll come out when he's ready. To force your cat out of his hiding spot will only encourage fearful behavior. Make sure he has access to food, water and a litter box from his hiding place, and avoid "checking in" on him. By giving him space, you will not be conceived as a threat, therefore giving him a sense of security.
• If you have identified a specific person or circumstance that stimulates fear in your cat, minimize contact with that particular person or situation.
• Keep your cats routine as regular as possible. Cats feel more confident if they know what to expect daily. Feeding, playing, cuddling, grooming and napping generally round out a cat's existence. Interfering with you cat's routine may cause him to behave as though threatened.

When cats play, they incorporate a variety of behaviors into their play. Aggressive play behavior is particularly common in young cats and in cats that live in one-cat households. Play provides young cats with opportunities to practice skills they would normally need for survival, such as pouncing, stalking, biting, scratching, and clawing. If humans play with a young kitten using their hands and/or feet instead of toys, the kitten is liable to learn that practicing these skills while playing with people is okay. In most cases, it is possible to teach your kitten or young adult cat that rough play is not acceptable behavior.

Since young cats and kittens need a lot of playtime, it is important to set up three or four consistent times during the day to initiate play with your cat. This helps her understand that she is not the one responsible for initiating play. This also helps to avoid unwanted pouncing at inappropriate or inconvenient times.

One way kittens play is by grabbing each other with both front feet, biting each other and kicking with their back feet. This is also a way kittens try to play with hands and feet if being waved in front of them. It is very important to avoid using any part of your body, like fingers or toes. Redirect your cat's aggressive play behavior onto acceptable objects like toys. It may take some trial and error to find the toy that works best with your kitten so make sure you try a variety.

Often, discouraging unacceptable behavior is the only avenue that is available. You need to set the rules for your kitten's behavior and your family and friends should reinforce these rules. Your kitten can't be expected to learn to differentiate between people in terms of when it's okay for rough play and when it is not.

• Use aversion techniques to discourage your kitten from nipping or biting. You can either use a squirt bottle filled with water or a can of pressurized air to squirt your kitten when she becomes rough. To use this technique effectively, you always need to have the spray bottle or can handy. Remember that aversion techniques only works if you offer your kitten an acceptable alternative.
• Redirect the behavior. After you startle your kitten with the air or water, IMMEDIATELY offer her a toy to wrestle with or to chase. This will encourage her to direct her rough play onto a toy instead of a person. It is recommended that you keep a stash of toys hidden in each room specifically for this purpose.
• Withdraw attention when your kitten starts to play too rough. If the distraction and redirection techniques don't seem to be working, the most drastic thing you can do to discourage your cat from rough play is to withdraw all attention. Since she wants to play with you, she is going to figure out how far she can go; however, you keep this limit consistent. The best way to withdraw your attention is to walk into another room and close the door long enough for her to calm down. If you pick her up to put her in another room, you're rewarding her by touching her. You should be the one to leave the room.

PLEASE NOTE: None of these methods are very effective unless you also give your kitten acceptable outlets for her energy. You need to play with her regularly using appropriate toys.

Punishing your kitten for rough play by tapping, flicking or hitting are almost always guaranteed to backfire. Your kitten could become afraid of your hands or she could interpret those flicks as playful moves and play more aggressively. Picking up your kitten to put her into a "timeout" could possibly reinforce her behavior because she probably would enjoy the physical contact of being picked up. By the time you get her to the timeout room and close the door, she has probably already forgotten what she did to be put in that situation.

If you find that none of these suggestions work and your kitten's play increases in aggression or becomes unpredictable, it can be best to seek help from a behavior specialist. Kittens can bite or scratch through the skin, and abuse by your cat is not conducive to a caring and mutually beneficial relationship.

Like millions of dogs, and quite a few professional athletes, Jack the English Bulldog was sidelined with a knee injury. Thankfully, Jack has a great owner and a dedicated veterinary team. Together, they were able to repair his knee and get him back to work. Watch this video to learn more about cruciate injuries and the surgeries that help get our pets back on their feet.